Chopping Chain Saws

Archive for the ‘How to fall a tree’ Category

Generally, unless you are falling a Christmas tree, you’ll want to remove as many of the branches, making it easier to transport the logs to their final destination.

This process of removing tree branches from fallen trees is called limbing.

When limbing branches from a still standing tree, NEVER limb (cut) above your shoulders. When you attempt to cut above your shoulders, you have to hold the chainsaw at or above your head. It is very easy for you to you lose control over the saw in this position, which can result in a very serious if not fatal injury.

The next simple rule after you have fallen a tree–take five from a safe distance from where you’ve fallen the tree. At your safe point, examine the area where the tree lays and see if there are any smaller trees, which have been bent over and trapped by the felled tree, these are called springpoles. You also want to see if there are any branches that are holding the tree partially up, or if the tree is on the level ground. Next, look up—see if you can detect any dead branches, or any form of debris that is hanging above the area where the tree lays, and may still fall to the ground. Dead branches and debris are called widowmakers because it has been well-documented the number sever injuries and deaths, which have occurred from falling debris several minutes after a tree has been felled. Which is why, we say take five. This give you time to catch your breath, and become aware of any overhead hazards.

Next, you need to assess the fallen tree. If the tree you fell is lodged or wedged between adjacent trees and did not fall completely to the to the ground, do not attempt to walk underneath the tree. Trees that are hung can fall without warning and are especially dangerous. These trees should be moved by means of equipment that either pull or lift the tree so that it will not rollover.

Once all hazards and obstacles have been accessed and removed, you can now start limbing the tree. You want to begin at the bottom of the tree, removing branches on the opposite side from where you are, and work your way toward the top. In this way, the tree is between you and the chainsaw, providing additional protection for you.

When limbing, do not stand on the downhill side of the tree, the tree could roll downhill and trap you, if you happen to cut a branch, which is supporting the tree log in place. While cutting, keep an eye on the tip of the chainsaw to avoid kickback. As you cut, you want to from time to time stop, turn your chainsaw off, and remove all debris from your work area. This will also help you avoid kickback.

When limbing trees that have very large and heavy braches you have to take extreme care. As you removed branches from the tree, the log can shift unexpectedly, which is why you must have good footing and have good balanced so that if you need to move, you will have the freedom to do so.

Springpoles are smaller tree, which are bent over and trapped by a fallen log. Springpoles have a huge amount of stored energy and present possible the greatest dangers of the limbing process. This stored energy can be safely released in two simple ways. The first method is to use an axe to cut the springpole at the apex of its bend. The second method is to do the same, only using your chainsaw.

To locate the apex, imagine a vertical line rising from the base of the tree and a horizontal line extending from the highest point of the spring pole. Where these two lines intersect, imagine a 45-degree angle to the spring pole. This is the apex and where the maximum amount of tension is located.

You can cut a springpoles from either underneath or from the above. When cutting it from the top, you have to stand at 45 degrees to the tree to avoid from being struck by the spring pole if the tension is suddenly released. From At this position, you can use the chainsaw to make a series of small cuts at the apex until the fibers begin to break on their own. When making this cut the chainsaw has to be at maximum RPMs with a slow rate of feed. Once the fibers begin to break, quickly move away from the tree and let the pressure release itself. Now, the springpole can safely be cut.

Binding or pinching can also occur when using a dull saw chain, a chainsaw too small for the size diameter of tree you want to fall, or a chainsaw that has too slow a speed.

Gravity can cause any cut portion of a tree to fall. This is import to keep in mind at all time because if the guard bar and saw chain happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time, they will become pinched (bind) between the falling portion of the tree and the stationary portion of the tree. When a tree binds your chainsaw, you are at risk of severe or fatal injury. Binding or pinching can also occur when using a dull saw chain, a chainsaw too small for the size diameter of tree you want to fall, or a chainsaw that has too slow a speed.

Generally, there are four types of binds that can occur when falling or bucking a tree:

The first one is called a top bind. This occurs when the top of a limb or log that is being cut tries to pinch the guard bar and saw chain. When this happens, make your first horizontal cut in the top of the log. Carefully observe the saw kerf (the space created from the cutting of a saw chain) and stop cutting the moment you see or feel the saw kerf closing. This will generally occurs less then ¼ of the diameter of the tree. Next, remove the bar and then make the finishing cut from the bottom of the log up to the cut you made from the top. As soon as there is room, insert a wedge to keep the bar from becoming pinched.

The next type of bind is the side bind and this happens when the limb or log tries to bind the bar and saw chain on the side. When this happens, the bucking cuts should be vertical starting with the side where the wood fibers are compressed. Make sure that the tree is between you and the cut, then while watching, make your first cut until the saw kerf starts closing—stop cutting and physically move around to the other side of the tree to make the release cut. (This should be on the side where the tree fibers are stretched.) Make sure you use your wedges.

When a limb or log that is being cut tries to pinch the bottom of the bar and saw chain this is know as a bottom bind. You want to make your first cut on the bottom of the log, while carefully watching the kerf. As soon as the kerf starts closing, remove the bar then start making your finishing cut from the top of the log and cut down to the cut you made on the bottom. As soon as you can insert a wedge, do so to prevent the bar/saw chain from becoming pinched.

Possible the most dangerous type of bind is the end bind. This is when a tree has fallen so that it is on an incline. No matter what, gravity will attempt to push the top portion of the log down onto the bottom portion, pinching the bar and saw chain. When freeing your bar you have to use extreme care. With a tree on an incline, the cut log and tree can roll on top of you or pull you under it when the log is released. You will have to us your wedges because the bar and saw chain will become pinched when the cut or cuts are completed.

You want to always plan your cuts carefully. Trees that are up to 6 inches in diameter are small trees and may be cut through with one pass

However, larger trees, which are over 6 inches in diameter, may require a series of cuts.

The first cut you will make is called the “face cut,” and will be made on the side of the tree that you want it to fall. You will be making a series of two cuts that will form a 45-degree angle. You want to make the bottom cut of the notch first, approximately 1/3 of the way through the diameter of the tree trunk. The next cut will be made at a 45-degree angle, which will meet the depth of your first cut.

The next cut you will make is called the back-cut or the felling cut. This is made on the opposite side of the face cut and about 2 inches higher than where you made the bottom cut of the notch. Do not cut all the way through the tree; stop at a point that will leave a hinge approximately 1/8 to 1/6 of the diameter of the tree, but can vary depending on when the tree begins to fall.

The moment the tree starts to fall, shut off the chainsaw, safely set it down, never throw down your chainsaw, and leave the area on your planned escape route. You do not want to return to the area until the tree is safely fallen, and is no longer moving.

There are a few times when a tree will happen to be perfectly balanced and will not fall after a backcut has been made. In cases such as this, two plastic wedges can be used to start the fall of the tree as well as influence its direction. It is always best to use two wedges along with a sledge that’s face is 1/3 bigger than the wedge face. Plastic wedges are preferred because they are safer, and do not harm the saw chain teeth. Never attempt to use an axe as a wedge or as a driver. Axes were not designed for this duty and can shatter causing injury to your or another individual. In addition, you always want to remove your chainsaw when you or your partner is driving wedges into the cut. You want to carefully strike the wedge so that it will not pop out of the cut and cause the tree to fall backward on top of you.

Once you have safely fallen a tree, your work isn’t over. Your next task is limbing, which is the cutting off of branches from felled or standing trees. Once this has been accomplished, you will buck the tree. Bucking is when you saw the felled trees into logs. When limbing and bucking, this has to be done on the uphill side of the tree or log, where you can predict the rolling or sliding of the logs. Always use precautions, such as chocks to ensure the trees are in a stable position. Remember safety should always come first.

Once you are properly dressed to fall a tree, the first thing you need to do is visualize where the tree will fall and always try for a clear landing.

You do not want to fall a tree on any stumps, large rocks, or uneven or sloping ground, for the simple reason that depending on the size of the tree, it can roll, pinning you either underneath it or against another tree. Visualize the fall path in all directions and identify any hazards in those areas, including where you have parked your vehicle.

You also have to study the tree and ask the following questions:

* What obstacles are in the way?
* Are there any heavy branches in the crown?
* Does there appear to be more branches on one side of the tree than the other sides?
* Is the wind blowing and if so from what direction?
* Are there any “Widowmakers,” (dead branches in the crown of the tree) that may fall on you when you begin to cut?

The answer to all of these question can and will determine the direction in which the tree will fall. Next, plan your escape! You must have a pre-planned escape route where you can run to, if something goes wrong. This can be to the rear, or side of the tree. Never wait until the tree is falling to decide where you should move to avoid being hit. Your path of escape should be along a line, approximately 45 degrees from the direction of the tree fall.

You also want to make sure that there are not any electric power line is in the vicinity of the tree. Never attempt to work on the tree unless you are absolutely certain that it will not come into contact with any electric lines. If for any reason you have to remove a tree, and there is any chance that it may come into contact with any power lines, contact your power company, they have the expertise to remove your tree safely.

If you are limbing (the cutting off of branches from the tree) before you fall the tree, never cut above your shoulders because you do not have enough control over the chainsaw in this position.

It is always best to observe the lean of a tree and to fall the tree in the direction that it is already leaning. This allows gravity to do most of the work, makes for a cleaner fall, and many times eliminates the need to a wedge, (this is a plastic or metal tool, which is used to prevent a tree from falling backwards, and also to prevent the bar from being pinched when bucking, or cutting the tree into logs.)

When felling trees, always have a place to set your chainsaw. Never run with a chainsaw in your hand, operating or not, always shot off the chainsaw and set it down. Your chainsaw can be replaced—YOU CANNOT.

When a tree starts to fall, stop chainsaw, place it on the ground, and retreat rapidly at 45-degree angle from line of fall.

NEVER MOVE DIRECTLY BEHIND THE TREE!
You can be seriously or possibly fatally injured if the tree butt kicks back during the fall.

Once the tree has been limbed, the next step is to cut the tree into usable lengths. This process is known as bucking.

When cutting the tree into firewood, make sure that you cut the logs into lengths that you and your partner can safely lift and carry. Because most bucking cuts are made at angles, always allow an allowance of 4 to 6 inches when bucking logs. This is especially true for logs that will be taken to a sawmill so that the ends of the boards can be squared at the mill.

If you are bucking a tree, which is completely on the level ground, your biggest challenge will be avoiding running your saw chain into the dirt. However, when the tree is perched on either a rock or another tree, then bucking becomes more difficult. In such cases, you need to keep a firm grip on the saw with both hands, while maintaining a balanced, and firm, even stance in case you have to move quickly if the log begins to shift. In addition, you always stand on the uphill side of the log so that if the log does roll, it will roll away from you and not toward you.

Once you are properly dressed to fall a tree, the first thing you need to do is visualize where the tree will fall and always try for a clear landing.

“More people are killed while felling (cutting) trees than during any other logging activity.” This statement comes from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, or OSHA. Their website is: http://www.osha-slc.gov/.

For this reason, when approaching any tree to cut, safety must be your most important concern.